Listed below is information which referances many wallcoverings. For more information concerning a specific Teamworks' product please read the "Application Instructions" insert that comes in each roll of Teamworks' wallcovering. PLEASE NOTE: Team logos and graphics are updated from time to time. Due to the terms of licensing contracts, we must sell the most current logo. That means you may receive something that is slightly different from what is shown on the web site.

Wallcovering Materials

Often, the use a room receives will suggest the best material for the wallcovering. For example, although most children's areas need only washable paper, a scrubbable one will stand up better to rough treatment and thorough cleaning. The material content of a wallcovering is a determining factor not only in its durability and cleanability, but also in its appearance, cost, installation, and ease of removal. The back of a wallcovering sample usually contains information on the wallcovering's content, whether it's washable or scrubbable, and whether it can be stripped or peeled from the wall. You can also check there to learn the size of its pattern repeat. Before purchasing a large quantity, buy one roll and look at it in your room with your other furnishings or samples.
The most popular wallcoverings, especially for do-it-yourselfers, have some vinyl content. Vinyl's durability and strength make these papers relatively easy to install; they're also easy to maintain.

Fabric-backed vinyl has a vinyl top layer and an undersurface of fiberglass or cheesecloth. The sturdiest kind of wallcovering, fabric-backed vinyl is washable, often scrubbable, and usually strippable. Compared with other papers, it's also more moisture resistant and less likely to tear if a wall cracks. Fabric-backed vinyl usually comes unpasted because it's often too heavy to roll well if prepasted.
Paper-backed vinyl has a vinyl top layer with a paper backing in place of fabric backing. This makes the wallcovering lighter, so paper backed vinyl comes prepasted. It's often peelable and washable.
Expanded vinyl has a three-dimensional effect; It's paper-backed. It's often designed to look like another surface, such as rough plaster, granite, textured paint, or grass cloth. It's especially suitable for walls that aren't perfectly smooth.
Vinyl-coated paper looks like paper and not vinyl, so lends an air of sophistication to light-use areas. Even vinyl-coated papers that are labeled washable can stain and tear easily. Whether they're inexpensive or costly, wallcoverings made of solid paper without any vinyl tear more easily.
Hand-screened paper is applied with a separate handmade and hand placed silk screen for each color. This process makes hand-screened papers more expensive than the majority of other wallcoverings, which are machine printed. Hand-screened papers are difficult to handle and are usually hung by professionals.
Hand-sculptured paper is applied with a handmade process designed to look and even sometimes feel entirely like another surface. The technique is always differant and can thus produce a multitude of effects, however, this makes hand-sculptured papers more expensive than other wallcoverings including hand-screened (see above). Hand-sculptured papers are difficult to handle and are usually hung by professionals.
Foils have a reflective surface, can brighten up a small, dark space. However, they wrinkle easily, require an absolutely smooth wall surface and special installation. Usually hung by professionals.
Flocked papers have textured patterns, resemble damask or cut velvet. Difficult to work with, usually hung by professionals.
Murals depict nature or some historic event. Murals open up a room, particularly if the strips are hung across a large expanse of wall. Or, for a little less drama, try hanging a single-panel mural in the middle of a large wall; on either side hang a paper that matches the mural's background. May require professional installation.
Wallcovering Adhesives

Ready or premixed adhesives come ready to use. These adhesives are usually sold in specific types for each type of wallcovering.
Powder or dry mix adhesives must be mixed with water and allowed a recommended amount of time to activate.
Clear-non-staining adhesives are used on specific types of wallcoverings to prevent staining and adhesive show-through.
Paste activators or prepasted adhesives are used on prepasted wallcoverings to activate the paste without the mess of a watertray.
Surface Prep Products are sealers and primers used to improve adhesion to porous surfaces, glossy surfaces and surfaces with poor paint.
NOTE: Because there are many kinds of adhesives, consult your wallcovering dealer for the proper adhesive to use with your particular wallcovering.

How Much Wallcovering?

Wallcovering comes in single and double rolls. They are normally priced by single rolls and sold in double rolls. Dealers will usually cut a single roll for you. Be generous when you estimate wallcovering quantities - rolls printed at different times may not provide an exact color match, so be sure to order enough the first time. T o determine how much wallcovering to buy, measure the walls to be covered; use a long steel tape measure and mark down the dimensions: Measure the height and width of each wall (include openings).
American single rolls contain approximately 35 sq. ft., European or metric single rolls contain approximately 28 sq. ft. Figure approximately 30 sq. ft. of coverage per single American roll because of pattern match and waste.
Step 1: Measure the walls and figure the total surface area to be covered in square feet (multiply the height times the width = square feet).

Step 2: Divide the surface are by 30, this will give you the number of american single rolls.

NOTE: Remember, metric rolls are smaller. Add 25% (x1.25 to get the new total)) to the number of American rolls for the same coverage.

Estimating for borders is handled by measuring the width (in feet) of all areas you're covering. Divide by 3 to get the number of yards needed. Borders usually come in rolls of 5 yards. If you're planning to miter corners around doors and windows, add some extra.
For more Accurate results make a room layout and bring it to your wallcovering retailer. Check the run number and keep a record in case you need to reorder.

Tools Needed

Materials:
1. Spackle
2. Surface preparation (primer, sealer or size)
3. Wallcovering adhesive
Wall Prep Tools:
1. Tape measure or yard stick
2. Step ladder
3. Broad knife or putty knife
4. Sand paper
5. Prep tray or paint tray
6. Prep roller, paint brush or pad applicator
7. Drop cloth
8. Level, bubble stick or chalk line
9. Screwdriver

Hanging Tools:
1. Cutting board and raised working surface or pasting table
2. Scissors
3. Snap-off cutter or razor knife
4. Water tray (for prepasted). Paste tray and roller or brush
5. Wallcovering smoother or smoothing brush
6. Wallcovering trim guide or broad knife
7. Seam roller
8. Rinse bucket or tray and sponge
9. Straight edge

Wallcovering Removal Tools:
1. Wallcovering steamer and broad knife OR...
2. Big blade wall stripper OR...
3. Chemical removers and broad knife

Planning the Project

There are two main things to consider when planning the project, wallcovering patterns and room layout.
Wallcovering patterns: There are three types of pattern matches:

1. Straight across match (all objects line up straight across the paper).

2. Drop match (the objects) on the paper run diagonally across the paper, every other strip is the same at the ceiling.

3. Random or non-matching (no match to the pattern (hang every other strip up-side-down for best color match at the seams).

NOTE: To avoid drawing attention to the ceiling line, start your first strip with a full pattern object at the ceiling whenever possible. Then match the pattern with additional strips (If the ceiling is not level, more or less of the pattern will show at the ceiling line).

Room Layout:

Time spent planning the room layout will make the job easier and save you money.

1. Carefully plan where the LAST strip will be hung. If you are doing a whole room, expect a pattern mismatch at that point. If possible try to locate above a door, above a window or in a corner which is not the focal point of the room.

2. After you select where the mismatch will be, measure the width of the wallcovering and measure from your end location around the room placing light pencil marks on the wall where your seams will fall.

3. After you have placed the marks on the wall you can move your end point a few inches in either direction to avoid tricky spots such as putting a seam tight on a casing or wasting most of a full sheet over a window or door. If possible allow at least 6" around the corners, this will help when you cut and overlap at the corner (see corner instructions). Remark all seam locations and review room layout. You may have to do this several times before you are comfortable with the location of the strips.

4. Select your starting point where you can hang two full sheets whenever possible.

5. After you have selected your starting point, use a bubble stick, level, or chalk line and bob, to make a plumb line from floor to ceiling.

NOTE: Don't use a corner because they are normally not plumb. When making the plumb line use a "sharp" pencil&emdash;NOT A PEN OR MARKER&emdash;because the pen or marker may bleed through the wallcovering. An accurate plumb line is very important. Any error will compound itself and make your pattern crooked.

Wall Surface Preparation

1. Remoce old Wallcovering: Some newer wallcoverings are strippable and peel off. Try this first. Lift at the seams or base. If unstrippable, best way to remove most wallcovering is with a steamer. A steamer can be rented from your wallcovering retailer. If steamer is unavailable, use a big blade wall stripper. Carefully shear under wallcovering. If you use a chemical remover, follow manufacturers instructions carefully.
2. Scrape flaking paint and sand smooth.

3. Clean walls, remove mold and mildew (using 2 cups of household bleach per gallon water solution). Remove old paste, grease and dirt with a warm mild detergent solution. Rinse well.

4. Patch walls, fill holes, nicks, scratches and cracks with speckle.

5. Sand ridges and high spots with medium grit sandpaper.

6. A lining paper should be used for extremely bad walls (Consult with wallcovering retailer or professional).

7. Sealing the Surface: For sealing, priming or sizing the wall, use a roller for large surfaces and trim brush for edges. Freshly painted walls in new homes normally need a coat of primer to insure proper adhesion of wallcoverings. In the following list are types of products available for wall preparation. Consult with your wallcovering retailer or a professional wallcovering dealer for the best product for your application.

Prewallcovering Primers or Universal Primers are made to be used under all wallcoverings and on all surfaces. Most prewallcovering primers can be used over glossy paint, plaster, paneling, wallboard, new wood, poor quality latex and over existing vinyl wallcoverings that are smooth and adhered tightly. Prewallcovering primers seal the surface, prevent bleeding and provide extra tack and slip. These primers are normally fast drying and require no additional sizing.
Oil Primer Sealers may be used under all wallcoverings and on all surfaces except over old wallcoverings and glossy walls. Oil primers are excellent sealers for new drywall and help bond poor latex. Oil primers work best with wall sizing for better adhesion.
CAUTION: Oil primers may cause old wallcovering ink to bleed (use only where permitted by law).
NOTE: If you are unsure of paint quality or adhesion use one of the primer sealers recommended above.

Acrylic Primers may be used under all wallcoverings and on all surfaces except over poor latex and new drywall.
CAUTION: If used on new drywall or over poor quality latex paint, the poor latex or acrylic primer may release when wallcovering is applied or when old wallcovering is removed.

NOTE: Any painting or finishing, such as baseboards, window or door frames, should be completed before hanging wallcoverings.

Inspect the Wallcovering

Check that the pattern numbers are correct on all the rolls. Every roll should also have the same run number.
Carefully unroll each roll and inspect its entire length. Flaws to look for include uneven ink, wrinkled edges and poor color registrations. Lay the rolls next to each other on a table - the pattern on the left edge of one roll should match the pattern on the right edge of another.
If you find any problems talk with your dealer right away. If the problem is small and the pattern is in limited supply, you may be able to work around the flaw.
Store wallcovering in a dry area until you're ready to hang it. Lay rolls horizontally and do not place anything heavy on top of them.
Hanging the Wallcovering

For Die-Cut Borders:
1. Unroll the border with the print side up near the edge of a flat surface.
2. Gently tear DOWN and AWAY from the border edge - one border at a time.

Cut the Wallcovering to Length:

1. Before you start to cut your wallcovering, unroll each roll and inspect the pattern for flaws and tears. Reroll it, pattern side in, this will help remove the curl.
2. Measure the starting wall height in three places, the two outside edges and the center. Use the largest dimension. After you have decided which part of the pattern you want at the ceiling add two inches to the top and two inches to the bottom, then cut the strip.

3. To assure that you are cutting your strips the proper length and maintaining the proper pattern match, start the second strip using your first strip as a guide. Match the pattern to the top of your first strip. Trim the excess off the top of second strip. Now roll out the second strip to the same length as the first strip and cut. Hang the first strip. Save the second to help you with the third and so on (if you have a 6" or longer drop match you may be able to avoid waste by alternating between rolls).

Activate or Apply the Adhesive:

1. Before applying adhesive or activating the paste on prepasted wallcovering, read instructions from the manufacturer carefully. Some wallcoverings require special adhesives or special instructions. For general information, see the following steps 2, 3, 4. (prepasted wallcovering may be activated with adhesive activators - also consult your wallcovering retailer for more information).
CAUTION: When applying over an existing vinyl or vinyl covered walcovering, a good quality vinyl to vinyl adhesive is reccomended to ensure proper adhesion.

2. To activate the paste on prepasted wallcovering, place the water tray on an old towel or drop cloth next to your raised work surface, fill it with water. Roll your strip pattern side in, submerge the wallcovering completely for the time recommended by the manufacturer. Grasp the top edge of the strip. Slowly pull the strip out unrolling the wallcovering under the water. Lay the strip on your work surface pattern side down. Inspect to make sure the entire strip is wet. If not, lightly sprinkle water on dry spots (change the water in the water tray when it gets cloudy).

3. After the paper is wet., it must have time for the paste to activate and to allow the wallcovering to relax. Fold the top l/4 of the strip to the center, paste side to paste side, with the edges even. Gently smooth Hat, repeat with the bottom '1/4 of the strip. Allow it to sit for the time recommended by the manufacturer (usually about five minutes). This is called booking the strip.

CAUTION: Do not crease the folds and avoid touching the edges of the strip, your fingers may remove the paste from the seams. The manufacturer may recommend that you roll the booked wallcovering or place it in a large plastic bag to avoid the paste from drying out on the edges.

4. When applying adhesive lay the wallcovering, pattern side down, on your work surface. Using a paste roller, brush or other applicator, apply the recommended adhesive evenly on the wallcovering (carefully cover complete strip including edges without paste build up). Apply the adhesive to the strip working from the center to the outside edges. Book the strip after the adhesive is applied. Always follow the instructions provided by the adhesive manufacturer. You can be sure you have enough adhesive if the strip slides easily on the wall.

NOTE: Pasting the wall has some advantages when hanging certain types of wallcoverings.
CAUTION: Consult with your wallcovering retailer before attempting this type of application. It does not work for all wallcoverings.

Hang the Strip:

1. After the strip has been booked for the appropriate time unfold the top half of the strip, line the edge of the strip on your plumb line. Remember to allow for the 2" overlap on the ceiling. Smooth the upper part of the strip and push it up tight to the ceiling. Now recheck the edge to the plumb line and smooth the top half of the strip.
NOTE: Using your wallcovering smoother start at the top and plumb side of your strip, smooth down and across being careful to keep the paper tight on the plumb line or butted seam.

2. Unfold the bottom of the strip and smooth down the bottom portion making sure the strip is aligned with the plumb line. Then smooth the entire surface of the strip working the bubbles to the edge of the strip. If there are persistent bubbles or wrinkles you can gently lift half the strip from the wall and realign.

NOTE: A few small bubbles may reappear after strip is hung as the strip starts to dry. In most cases these will disappear after wallcovering drys.

Trim:

1. Press the wallcovering tight at the ceiling line and baseboard using your trim guide.
2. Trim off the excess paper.
NOTE: To get a good trim line press the strip firmly into the corner with the trim guide and maintain a sharp edge on the cutting blade (make only 2 or 3 cuts per blade edge).

Clean the Strip:

Before you move to the next strip wipe excess adhesive from the wallcovering, ceiling and moldings with a damp sponge or soft cloth.
Roll the Seams:

After the adhesive has begun to set (approximately 20 minutes) roll the seam lightly with your seam roller. Sponge seam after to clean paste that may have squeezed out.
CAUTION: Rolling seams on flocked or embossed wallcoverings may damage them. Tap the seams softly with a smoothing brush or use a smoother designed for soft surface wallcoverings.

Special Areas

Doors, Window, Etc.: "DO NOT" try to precut the strip to fit tight to the subject. Instead, allow it to overlap the edge, then make diagonal cuts to the corner of the door, window, etc. Use your trim guide to press the wallcovering tight. Then trim with a sharp blade. Match the pattern above and below the object being careful to keep the strips plumb.
Outlets and Switches: Trim around inside of opening taking care not to cut opening larger than cover plate.

CAUTION: Turn off electricity. Remove cover plates. Hang wallcovering over outlet box.

Corners: Because corners frequently are not plumb do not try to wrap a whole strip of wallcovering around a corner. Measure the distance from the last strip hung to the corner. Take this measurement from three places, top, bottom and middle of the wall. Add 1/2" to the widest measurement, cut your new strip to this total measurement Save the strip left over. Hang the first strip which will overlap the new wall by l/2". Make a diagonal cut in the 2" overhang at the top and bottom in the corner. Smooth and trim the strip. Measure out from the corner the width of the left-over strip. Make a new plumb line. Hang the left over strip by lining it up with the new plumb line. Smooth, trim, wipe and then hang your next strip.

Ceilings: If you are covering the ceiling, hang the ceiling before the side walls. Measure out from the wall the width of the wallcovering less 2" and make a line. The length of the strip should also extend down each wall 2~. Putting ceiling wallcovering up is the same as doing a wall except you need a second person to help hold the wallcovering.

Borders: To hang borders, cut to convenient lengths; paste, book and trim as recommended by the manufacturer. Hang, keeping top close to ceiling. Start 1" or so from the corner. Go around the corner and butt the ends of the strips matching the patterns.